Mathis Retreat

Frequented mostly by couples and honeymooners, a refreshing breeze runs throughout romantic Kenanga and there are stunning panoramic views of the neighboring rice fields throughout the property. The entrance to Kenanga is beautifully landscaped with tropical plants and trees, visited by the occasional white duck that lives on the property. The lobby is an elegant open-walled structure with a solid wood desk, artsy knick-knacks, and handsome hardwood seating, though it's not a space intended for congregating. Rooms are housed in wooden one-story buildings with grass roofs and the bungalows are scattered throughout the property. The outdoor infinity pool overlooks the rice fields as well, and is a relaxing spot lined on one side by lounge chairs. The restaurant features rustic wood plank walls, a vaulted bamboo ceiling decorated with delicate hanging lamps, and is open on most sides -- it's a simple, laid-back space with lovely rice field views as well. The property features a small wooden hut in the middle of the rice fields decorated with fresh flowers where couples can enjoy a three-course meal in private -- a perfect cap to a romantic and tranquil stay here.

Kenanga is located in the rice fields north of Ubud, beyond Campuhan, about a 10-minute drive to downtown Ubud. The walk into town takes just under an hour, which is prohibitive for most guests. There is not much of interest within easy walking distance besides a couple of local restaurants, like Balicow, which has good pizzas and is an eight-minute walk from the hotel. There are a few other boutique resorts nearby, as well as various tour vendors and artist stalls within a 15-minute walk. The Yoga Barn -- a favorite among travelers -- is a 15-minute drive away. Ngurah Rai International Airport is an hour and five minutes from the property by car or shuttle.

The standout feature in all 21 rooms at Kenanga is the rustic-chic decor and almost bohemian charm that runs throughout. Floors are made of attractively faded gray and terra cotta tiles and the furniture -- desks, nightstands, bed frames, doors and wardrobes -- are crafted from deliberately antiqued light wood. Decor employs patterns in eye-catching ways, from the rough-hewn wood panel sculptures that hang above beds to the bedside lamps, bed runners, and pillows. Deep jewel tones appear in the curtains and throw pillows, giving depth to the otherwise earth-toned spaces. Each room is large (starting at 40 square meters, or 431 square feet), and has a flat-screen TV with satellite channels, a safe, and free Wi-Fi access. The rooms have an entire wall made of windows and Superior Rooms have spacious, private, furnished terraces overlooking the rice fields. Bungalows are considerably larger, with a couch and furnished patio, but unlike many villas at nearby properties, they don't have private plunge pools and lack Superior Rooms' rice field views. Bathrooms are a true highlight in all room categories. Large stone soaking tubs look elegant against stone tiling, wooden vanities, and framed mirrors. Bungalow bathrooms also have large tile rainfall showers. The toiletries featured in rooms are all natural and sold at the hotel as well.

One of the highlights of staying here are the meals, which feature a blend of local and international dishes and are served in the casual outdoor restaurant, Terracotta. Breakfast is free and has a fairly extensive selection of a la carte choices. There is a romantic hut set up for couples to enjoy a private three-course dinner in the rice fields, and the restaurant has a bar and a resident pastry chef. An afternoon tea is served as well. The infinity pool is small, but has several wooden lounge chairs surrounding it and stunning views of the neighboring rice fields. There is also a peaceful spa area -- a simple hut, really, set amid the scenery -- with massage tables and limited beauty services. A welcome drink is given upon arrival and there is free Wi-Fi access in all rooms. Scooter rentals are available as are airport transfers, while tours and activities can be arranged through the hotel. The hotel also runs a free hourly shuttle into town and can arrange babysitting services for any families that pass through if needed.