Puri Maharani Boutique Hotel & Spa

In terms of hotels in southwestern Bali, there isn't too much that makes the Puri Maharani stand out. Instead, it's a reliable bet with classic Balinese style and tranquil garden grounds, plus its cheap prices make it popular. In fact, the main reason for staying here is to save some cash -- it's far from downtown Sanur and the beach, so rates are significantly lower than what's found in town. Given that distance, expect to see a little more activity on the hotel's grounds than at similar properties right in Sanur. During our 2017 visit, guests were coming and going all day, expats dined in the open-air restaurant, and travelers sunned themselves by the pool. All the while, staff tend to the grounds, manicuring flowers and lawns, and making offerings at the various Balinese shrines. Even with all of this activity, it's a quiet place. At night, friends might share some beers on the lawn, but otherwise you're likely to hear only the sounds of croaking frogs. It's a well-liked little property, particularly among couples, friends, and families from Europe and the U.S. 

Location isn't one of this hotel's strong suits, as it sits along a busy and charmless highway well outside of Sanur's touristy heart. As mentioned, though, that translates to bargain rates. A free round-trip shuttle runs into town four times per day, dropping guests at Besakih Beach Hotel, where they are allowed to use the beach chairs for free. Keep in mind that the last shuttle back to the hotel is quite early, meaning that if you're dining in town, you'll need to take a cab. The drive takes 10 to 15 minutes depending on traffic. Expect at least a 45-minute drive to Ubud, though this will change in heavy traffic -- budget the same amount of time (or longer) for a trip to Kuta. The airport is a 30-minute drive away when the roads are calm.

There are a range of rooms here, though all are relatively simple and straightforward. You'll see just a touch of local Balinese style that varies from room to room, with details that can include local artwork, carved four-poster beds, ornate wooden door frames, and rich purple and gold hues. Rooms on the upper floor are generally more modern, with sliding glass doors leading to private balconies, while lower-floor rooms have classic wooden doors leading to terraces. Standard features in all rooms include mini-fridges, two free small bottles of water, electric kettles, and flat-screen TVs (some are older models). All rooms have air-conditioning, though it was pretty weak in our room, and the Wi-Fi is free, but spotty. Bathrooms are spacious in all rooms, with plenty of counter space, free toiletries, and showers or shower/tub combos. We did spot some stains in the sinks and tubs or showers, and some of the shower/tub combos have only low handheld showerheads that aren't convenient. Additionally, the wall of the bathroom in our Super Deluxe Room didn't reach the ceiling, making for some potential privacy issues. 

The hotel squeezes just the right amount of extras into its compact package. The small, but lovely, pool was busy with guests during our visit, and there are sun loungers as well as shaded seating. The gardens are also a delight, with lots of tropical plants and flowers tended to lovingly by the staff. A spa treatment room is tucked into a quiet corner of the property for massages, and there's an almost royal-looking reading area that's a fine place to kick back on a lazy afternoon. The hotel has some fitness equipment, but it's old and not really functional. A restaurant serves a diverse Indonesian and international menu, and the reliable quality of the food is certainly a high point here. Half- and full-board rates are available, but breakfast isn't included as standard. The hotel runs a free round-trip shuttle to Besakih Beach Hotel, its sister property right in Sanur, where beach chairs are free to use. The shuttle is scheduled four times daily, but the last departure from town is early, so plan ahead. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel, but can be spotty in certain places.