Taman Harum Cottages & Spa

Located right off a main road, Taman Harum Cottages feel a world away from the bustling tourist areas in downtown Ubud. The gurgling fountain and the relaxing instrumental music in the lobby muffle the traffic noise, setting the vibe for a tranquil stay. Architectural style and interiors have deep roots in traditional Balinese design. There are low brick buildings with pitched roofs and stone, and lush tropical gardens are dotted with weathered stone statues and wood sculptures with intricate carvings. At the far end of the property, the hotel owner’s family temple, which has an ornate brick-and-stone gate, gives guests the chance to experience the culture.  

The vibe at the Taman Harum Cottages, which opened in 1986, is quiet and relaxing. Guests, most of whom are European and Australian couples and families, tend to leave for the day after breakfast, and during our visit we only saw one couple with a young child sitting by the pool in the morning. The pizzeria by the entrance is popular with guests and non-guests alike, and it has sidewalk seating adjacent to the hotel’s main entrance. However, it doesn’t get loud, and the atmosphere is laid-back and relaxing, even in the evening. 

The hotel’s location away from the touristy areas in central Ubud is a huge plus for those seeking some peace and quiet, but travelers looking to stay closer to the action may want to compare rates at the Lumbung Sari Cottages, which has a small pool and lovely grounds. The Tanah Semujan Ubud is an even cheaper option within walking distance of the center, with a pool and more modern rooms. There is no full restaurant on-site, though. Travelers wanting something with more on-site amenities but with a similar quiet vibe may want to consider the hotel’s sister property, the Bali Spirit Hotel and Spa, with two pools and a creekside restaurant, located a 15-minute walk from Monkey Forest.  

The hotel is located on a busy road outside a small village surrounded by rice fields. There are a few small shops and supermarkets within easy walking distance, and a few vendors offer Indonesian food along the road, but there aren’t many restaurants in the area. The Monkey Forest, one of Ubud’s major attractions, is about a 15-minute drive away, as is the city center, where guests will find shops, temples, restaurants, museums, and yoga studios. The famous Goa Gajah Temple and the Arma Museum can each be reached in about 10 minutes by car. Ngurah Rai International Airport is about a 60-minute drive away.

The hotel’s 17 rooms were renovated in 2013, but all have a mix of older and more contemporary elements that give them a simple, though not unattractive, look. All units are decorated in a similar, unassuming style that combines generic pieces of furniture -- such as brown vinyl couches and basic wooden desks -- with traditional Balinese elements, including ornate wood carvings, four-poster beds with muslin blinds (in some rooms), and natural fiber finishes. Some rooms have been updated with wallpaper and/or white tile floors, but others have kept the original terrazzo floors, which make them feel a tad old. The tube-style or old flat-panel TVs don’t help, either. However, all rooms have balconies or patios furnished with at least a couple of chairs and a table. 

Basic in-room amenities include air-conditioning, minibars stocked with a couple of beers, water, and a soda, and free Wi-Fi. Bathrooms were also renovated in 2013, but vary in style. Most are simple but clean, with walk-in showers, separate tubs in most, small sinks, and gray or white tiles. Others have modern, stone basin sinks set on wooden vanities with black counters. All bathrooms except those in standard rooms on the top floor are outdoors.

Due to the hotel's location near the jungle, some critters (and especially mosquitos) may make their way into the rooms, particularly the open bathrooms.

Tucked away amid lush greenery, the pool is lovely and quiet. It's great for a hotel of this size, though it's better suited for a dip than for laps. There are a few loungers and umbrellas, a separate shallower area for children, and tons of local character, including stone statues lining the deck. There is no poolside drink or food service, but guests can go to either of the two on-site restaurants and bring eats back to their loungers. There are also no wellness facilities on-site except for the pool, but massages and salon services can be arrange for a fee. 

The main restaurant is located next to the lobby, and it offers traditional Indonesian cuisine along with a few international dishes, all at reasonable prices. A free a la carte breakfast is offered here every morning as well. Options are limited but include fresh fruit juices, sausages, eggs, bacon, and toast. The other restaurant opened in 2016 and is a more casual spot with sidewalk seating and a pizza oven. 

The hotel's owner, formerly a wood carver, has incorporated his work into the property, with a large art gallery displaying dozens of striking wood statues that guests can purchase. The hotel can arrange international shipping for a fee, and offers free shuttle service to and from downtown Ubud upon request.