The Payogan Villa Resort & Spa

Open since 2001, this sprawling resort is nestled in a hillside forest and has a romantic Balinese feel. Vistas are dotted with buildings that have pagoda and thatched roofs, and the green landscape is filled with beautiful small temples, pools, fountains, and carved walls. It all seems ready-made for plenty of photo ops. The hotel is in a secluded, quiet area, with just the sounds of nature providing the backdrop for relaxation, and there are 17 acres of tropical garden land to explore. Check-in takes place seated at tables in the huge open-air lobby, and guests are welcomed with a cold drink and towel. The pagoda ceilings tower overhead, and hand-carved hardwood furniture is set about the polished marble floors. While there is an overall upscale feel to almost every aspect of the resort, some of the common areas -- particularly the spa -- need a little freshening up. The resort's romantic and picturesque setting is especially appealing to couples, but some families come to make use of the spacious villas with private pools. 

This secluded resort is situated on 17 acres of land in the hills of Ubud, about a 15-minute drive from the center of town. To reach the hotel you drive up from Ubud along a bumpy road -- it's either an authentic introduction to the area, or a little bone-rattling, depending on the traveler. This area is full of exclusive resorts, but there's not much within walking distance of the resort other than a few mini-marts. The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary is about 20 minutes away by car, and holy Mount Batur is a one-hour drive from here. Ngurah Rai International Airport, outside of wild Kuta, is an hour and 15 minutes south, depending on traffic.

The resort's 45 spacious villas come in multiple configurations -- some with separate or multiple bedrooms -- and all are situated to provide beautiful views of the hotel's gardens or surrounding forest and countryside. The look throughout is polished and elegant, but traditional. Expect to see chunky hardwood furniture in warm medium tones mixed with more ornate carved pieces. White polished marble tiles line the floors and white walls are hung with a mix of contemporary and classic local art, some of it interesting and some verging on tacky. Bamboo ceilings tower overhead and four-poster beds are draped with mosquito netting, but otherwise decor is simple, verging on austere. 

Standard features include flat-screen TVs, DVD players, air-conditioning, mini-fridges, free Wi-Fi, and electric kettles for tea or coffee. Garden villas have outdoor stone tubs, while higher-category rooms have a private plunge pool. Bathrooms are massive, and some are done with an indoor/outdoor layout. All have separate showers and tubs and long countertops with plenty of place for storing toiletries. We did spot a bit of upkeep that's needed, ranging from old grout in floor tiling to moss growing on outdoor showers in some rooms.

The resort has two restaurants, including the lovely open-air Lesung Restaurant by the pool. It is open all day and serves international cuisine and local fare featuring fresh Balinese produce. Sawah Restaurant serves breakfast and is available for group functions. Breakfast is a free buffet that includes a generous spread of hot and cold dishes that range from local favorites to Western items. The lobby bar has a great outdoor deck overlooking the pool. 

The pool is the hotel's main attraction, and it's quite stunning, with a rustic Balinese feeling and beautiful trees and flowers all around. It appears to float and overlooks the forest. Goddess statues in the center pour water, while lounge chairs and umbrellas invite poolside relaxation. Purnama Spa focuses on wellness and offers a variety of treatments in a lovely setting, but some of its water-based facilities could be better maintained. Yoga and meditation classes can be arranged.

A meeting room can accommodate up to 100 people, and there's a desk in the lobby lounge that provides a computer and printer for guests to use. The resort is popular for weddings as it has a number of spaces that are suitable for ceremonies and celebrations. There are also lots of great locations for wedding photos around the property. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel and free buggies are available to help guests traverse the sprawling property. There is also scheduled shuttle service to central Ubud.