Pestana Bay Ocean Aparthotel

One of the main advantages to this hotel is its position as one of the few in the area directly on the beach. Still, there are some flaws that are worth noting when it comes to style and substance. Despite its bright green facade with huge forest murals, the Pestana Bay Ocean Aparthotel doesn't exactly look fresh, despite being well kept and clean. A nature theme continues inside the seven-story building, with a lobby decorated in schools of fish and bamboo seating topped with colorful floral-print pillows. The hotel's gardens, too, are dotted with numerous palm trees and exotic-looking plants, while sun loungers and benches are found on the green lawns. Black volcanic-rock terraces and footpaths overlook a pebble beach and pounding Atlantic Ocean surf. Retro-looking interiors give this all-inclusive property a generally dated feel that certainly feels more late 20th century than contemporary. The vibe, however, is unpretentious, drawing mostly vacationing couples as well as some families with kids.

Surrounded by little more than other hotels, on the southwest outskirts of Funchal, the Pestana Bay Ocean Aparthotel feels pretty secluded (or isolated, depending on the traveler). Unlike the vast majority of area hotels, however, the property has direct access to one of the few (and therefore very popular) beaches on the island -- Praia Formosa -- composed of black sand and pebbles. There's practically nothing within walking distance, and Funchal's historic center, with numerous restaurants, bars, and attractions, is 15 to 20 minutes' drive away. The hotel runs a daily free shuttle service to the center, though it can get crowded. The hotel is about 20 to 25 minutes' drive from Madeira Airport. 

While the property advertises itself as an aparthotel, most of its 217 units feel more like rooms with small kitchenette areas. Suites, however, do include separate living rooms. Rooms are all fairly spacious, however, with carpeted or wide-tile floors and rattan furnishings that combine to create colorful, if rather dated, interiors. Accents feel '70s-esque, in shades of bright mustard, pea-green, and burnt orange. The effect is only enhanced by tropical-fish or floral posters and fabrics.

Kitchenettes are equipped with mini-fridges, two-burner stovetops, coffee/tea facilities, small sinks, and a good amount of dishes and utensils for preparing meals. Other amenities are basic or non-existent: tube-style TVs, no in-room Wi-Fi, and air-conditioning only in some units -- in general, cooling comes from open doors and ceiling fans. All rooms open to furnished balconies or terraces, almost all with superb views along the coast and over the sea. Rooms on the top floors have the best views, but some rooms do face walls. Bathrooms are roomy, though a little tired in places, with tan marble countertops, wall-mounted hairdryers, busy colored tiling, and shower/tub combos. Suites each have two bathrooms. Guests generally find the crashing of the nearby waves on the beach conducive to a good night's sleep.

An outdoor swimming pool is large enough and lined with plentiful loungers -- which can be taken to the beach -- though there's a charge for umbrellas. The surf can be rough and the amount of space on shore is limited. Both swimming and sunbathing are less than ideal here, though it's lovely to look at and walk along. Poolside, there's a whirlpool tub and a small spa that offers massages treatments, plus a sauna and steam bath. There's also a spacious and bright fitness room with a few dated cardio/weight machines, and a games room with a pool table and giant chess board. While the swimming pool has a separate section for children and there's a small playground, there isn't much else for kids to do.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the hotel's main buffet restaurant, which opens to a terrace overlooking the ocean. This canteen-style dining can get very busy, with some reports pointing to long lines and waiting times. There is also an Italian restaurant in the basement, which requires booking, but has an a la carte menu (which is surprisingly included in the all-inclusive package). A bar serves a decent variety of drinks, which include draught beer, spirits, and wine as part of the all-inclusive rate, and also provides evening entertainment (comprising mostly karaoke and parrot shows).

The hotel runs a shuttle into Funchal, but it can be crowded. There are also meeting and event rooms, plus a small gift shop selling typical tourist tchotchkes. Additionally, the only free Wi-Fi to be had here is in the public areas. Parking is also free.