Calanica Residence Hotel

Set on a beautiful stretch of northern Sicily shoreline, Calanica Residence Hotel is a Mediterranean beach resort with stunning sea views from its bungalows and many parts of its lovely grounds filled with flowers, palms, pines, and yucca plants. The rectangular swimming pool is set “inland,” but the restaurant and bar look directly over the gorgeous teal water. The beachfront solarium -- a wooden sun terrace built atop Calanica’s rocky shore -- proves to be the main hangout area, with loungers, palapas, and hammocks of tables, where guests nurse drinks and flip through summer reads. This is a quiet place to relax, stare at and wade in the sea, listen to music on headphones, and nod off in the sun. There’s no animation or loud music pumping through speakers. Families with small children or anyone with mobility issues should be aware that the property is hilly, and steep stairs are required reach the hotel’s solarium and rocky beach on the Bay of Cefalu.

The hotel was originally built in the 1990s, and underwent a big renovation from 2014 to 2015. It offers an experience that is unusual for Sicily: individual bungalows overlooking the beach, each one equipped with kitchen facilities and outdoor space. The rates here are a touch more expensive than what is typical for the area, but the free breakfast and ability to self-cater offset that extra expense. Guests (many of whom are repeaters) are a mix of families and couples from all over the world, though especially from Germany, the Netherlands, France, and the U.K. A typical stay here is one week to 10 days. Note that Calanica is seasonal, operating from March through early November. All in all, Calanica is a fantastic pick for couples and families looking for an intimate and low-key escape on the beach near Cefalu, with the possibility of self-catering.

Calanica occupies a beachfront setting a couple of miles west of downtown Cefalu. Walking to Cefalu Cathedral in the historic part of town takes about 35 minutes via Lungomare Giuseppe Giardina, Cefalu’s beach promenade. (Driving takes about 10 minutes, but then you’ll have to deal with parking.) There are also local buses for getting to and from town. Excursions to Palermo and Monreale can be made in under 90 minutes by car or, depending on the schedule, by train, and the hotel can arrange tours around the mainland, the Aeolian islands, and diving hot spots. There is a supermarket a four-minute walk (or a one-minute drive) from hotel, perfect for stocking the kitchenettes. The drive to/from Palermo Airport takes about an hour and 15 minutes; Catania Fontanarossa Airport, nearly two.

Calanica’s 26 freestanding units fall into two easy categories: Deluxe Bungalows (25 of the 26 rooms) and the Junior Suite Bungalow (one). With the exception of the Junior Suite, all bungalows are identical, with the only difference being their location on the property (the hotel’s offers luggage service via electric carts). All but two have a sea view. Bungalows, which once had a Polynesian-style rattan look, are now contemporary after renovations in 2014 and 2015. 

Aside from the fact that each room is an individual bungalow, the rooms stand out from other hotels for their kitchenettes: all Deluxe Bungalows (not the Junior Suite) have a mini set of cooking facilities, including a microwave, two-eye burner, dishes and flatware, a sink with dish soap, and a small dining table. There are mini-fridges with items like Moretti Italian beer, juice, bottled water, and Fanta (fee). While the Junior Suite doesn’t have a kitchenette, it is larger than the Deluxe Bungalows and has a De'longhi espresso machine. The Junior Suite also has a TV embedded in the mirror and higher ceilings.

Deluxe Bungalows either have one king bed and a sofa bed that can be made into bunk beds, so are able to accommodate two to four people. All rooms have flat-screen TVs that can revolve to face the bed or the sofa area. Other amenities include air-conditioning, bathrobes, flip-flops, and free safes. Bathrooms have rainfall showers, hairdryers, and premium Sicilian toiletries: Ortigia bars of soap, bath foam, and shampoo. All units have outdoor space with tables and chairs, perfect for drying wet swimsuits, drinking up the stunning sea views, or enjoying a glass of wine at sunset.

One drawback to the rooms is that they are weirdly dark; the only opportunities for natural light to get in are through the glass front door and one window by the bed.

Wi-Fi is free in the rooms.

Calanica Residence Hotel is geared toward couples and families who want to both relax by the beach and partake in more physical activities. The rocky beach on the brilliant blue Bay of Cefalu is a big draw, and the hotel has wisely built a wooden sun terrace with loungers, palapa umbrellas, cabanas with gauzy curtains, and hammocks (all free, as are towels) on top of the rocks. There is a small wooden beach bar on the solarium, and food and drink service from the restaurant is available. Kayaking and pedal-boating are available when the conditions are right. Anyone with mobility issues (elderly people, families with small children) should be aware that it’s a steep hill down to the beach, and everyone should note that the sea won’t always be calm enough for swimming and water shoes are necessary to counter the rocks. There is also a large outdoor pool on the property, but it is located away from the coastline, in the interior of the resort. Guests pay by the hour for use of tennis and soccer facilities.

Calanica’s sea-facing restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. Standard bookings include breakfast, but half-board (lunch and dinner) is also available, as is room service. The breakfast buffet includes a big range of meats, cheeses, fruits, breads, pastries, and cakes, plus fresh honeycomb, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and made-to-order omelettes. The restaurant has a bar and a terrace for outdoor dining -- sunset dinners with seafood and wine can’t be beat. 

The hotel works with a local agency for car rentals, and bike and scooter rentals are available as well. Through the front desk, guests can book diving excursions, sightseeing tours, and daily boat trips to the Aeolian islands. Parking and resort-wide Wi-Fi are both free.