Mount Lavinia Hotel lies beyond a security gate, past the train tracks, and fronting a turnaround driveway with a picturesque fountain surrounded by red flowers and sculpted trees. The white building will likely impress on first view with its colonial architecture and decorative gold stars. Staff members greet newcomers dressed in authentic period costumes: white shorts, knee socks, red sashes, and British pith helmets. Many of them have been working at Mount Lavinia for decades, and they provide the gracious hospitality of a bygone era. Lucky guests may even get treated to a private tour of the secret passageway that lies beyond a small courtyard near the front desk. This crouch space has great significance, as the hotel was formerly the Governor’s Palace during the time of British rule in the early 1800s. Sri Lanka, then known as the island of Ceylon, was ruled by Sir Thomas Maitland, who fell in love with a local, Portuguese-Sinhalese dancer name Lovina, hence the construction of this passageway to enable secret meetings. Later renamed Mount Lavinia in honor of his love, the house became a military hospital during WWII before if finally became a hotel. 

Check-in includes a welcome ginger drink in the lobby bar -- a bustling gathering place, especially in in the evening, where many come to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail and live piano music. Large windows look out toward a lawn with palm trees and the private beach area. Hallways to three wings -- especially in the original portion of the house -- are lined with historic photos and a timeline of Maitland's love affair (definitely worth a look). These historic key spots, as well as the Governor's Restaurant, are well restored, but some guests may find that some older rooms and hallways are too dated and in need of some love. Also, those seeking a quiet vacation may be annoyed by the constant stream of weddings and events at the hotel. No one can argue, though, that Mount Lavinia has real authenticity and character, which is why it attracts such a steady following from near and far. 

Mount Lavinia is considered a city hotel, but it's around a 40-minute drive south of the business district of Fort and other destinations in the city center. Its pretty beachside location is removed from the hustle and bustle of Colombo's congested streets and offers some respite. This and its history help make it popular with local weddings and events, and there are likely to be several of each taking place on a daily basis. 

Arrivals who aren't renting a car can easily get a taxi from Colombo's Bandaranaike International Airport airport, about an hour and a half away. Alternatively, private transportation can be arranged with the hotel in advance. For excursions and day trips during the stay, the doormen will arrange taxi or tuk-tuk service, though, as at the airport, prices are usually inflated for tourists. 

The property is situated close to the train tracks of Mount Lavinia Railway; guests staying in rooms closest to the tracks may be disturbed while trying to sleep. 

The hotel has 226 rooms in three different wings: the Bay Wing, Sea Wing, and Garden Wing. All rooms are equipped with AC units, flat-screen TVs with satellite channels, free bottled water, tea and instant coffee, and minibars stocked with sodas, wine, beer, and liquor (fees apply). Turn-down service is offered, and most rooms come with bathrobes and slippers. Some areas of the hotel will experience more train noise than others so light sleepers should consult the front desk at check-in. Most bathrooms have shower-tub combos, but some have walk-in showers. Some rooms, especially the lower-priced ones, will show wear and tear. 

Colonial Rooms are more traditional in decor with older antique furnishings and parquet floors. These have a king- or queen-sized bed. Deluxe Direct Ocean View Rooms have patterned, wall-to-wall carpeting and balconies with views of the ocean, and come with king-, queen- or twin-size beds. Deluxe Suites are more contemporary in design with wood floors and separate seating areas. The five Colonial Suites are bigger units in the original wing with beautiful wood furnishings. They have separate living areas, four-poster canopy beds, and windows that open up to the ocean (but no balconies). 

Wi-Fi is provided in rooms at no charge. Room service is also available. 

Mount Lavinia Hotel is located on a rocky cliff, and guests can access two beaches on either side: a larger wide stretch of golden sand that is public, and a smaller one that is private. This private area is situated between two wings of the hotel and is attached to a manicured lawn area. Both beaches stay free of crowds, and both are great for lounging and walking, but red flags may indicate that the water is not safe for swimming. Most guests tend to use the hotel's outdoor swimming pool, which has a nice terrace with views. The pool has a shallow area for kids but lounge chairs are lacking, as most of the surrounding area is used for tables and chairs where guests are served food, drink, and high tea. To snag space, guests should head down in the morning during breakfast; pool attendants will help arrange chairs and towels. 

A fitness room has cardio machines and free weights free of charge for guests. CocoSpa is next to the beach with two treatment rooms for couples, two treatment rooms for singles, and a nail room. Balinese therapists offer a range of services including massages, body treatments, facials, manicures and pedicures, and hairstyling. Guests can relax in the lounge or use the open-air hot tub above the beach. 

The large business center has computer terminals, printers, copiers, and a conference room and phone for privacy. This meeting space can be set up with all the necessities for a small gathering, or larger groups can be hosted in different areas of the hotel. Weddings are also very popular here (they are typically held daily) and there is a beautiful ballroom that sees a lot of action.

Three specific bars in the hotel serve drinks, but most of the action happens in the lobby, which has stunning views of the Indian Ocean through floor-to-ceiling windows. This lounge area serves coffee, tea, and refreshments in the daytime, and has an elegant atmosphere in the evenings when there is live piano music. The Fish Tale Bar is situated along the beach though hours are limited to weekend days only. The terrace by the pool is also available for high tea and cocktail service throughout the afternoon and evening, and is a spectacular spot to watch the sunset.

The main dining event at this historic hotel is Governor’s Restaurant, which is accessed through a beautiful staircase from the main lobby. All three meals are served in this grand space and guests can choose to sit indoors in the beautiful air-conditioned colonial setting, or outdoors with views of the Indian Ocean. Breakfast is served buffet-style, and guests can order local and international a la carte dishes throughout the day and night. Most guests tend to dress up for dinner, and themed nights are also common. 

Terrace Restaurant is not far from this restaurant; its poolside chairs and tables seem to commingle with the Governor's Restaurant outdoor space. It may be confusing which restaurant is which. Many guests (and non-guests) come to enjoy the sunset over cocktails.

For romantic nights or special occasions, the Seafood Cove is an open-air, thatched-roof gazebo next to the beach with candles, ocean breezes, and live music. Fresh seafood straight from the Indian Ocean sits on display -- like in a seafood market -- and may include prawns, lobster, squid, and cuttlefish. Guests tell the chef how much they want and if they prefer the seafood grilled, sautéed, poached, or fried. This restaurant is truly atmospheric, and desserts should not be missed; the cardamon crème brûlée is a highlight.