Mama Sheila Drive, Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia
Intimate Caribbean guesthouse far removed from tourists
Outdoor pool and terrace with jaw-dropping views
Walking distance to a pretty beach with water sports
Suites have TVs and fully equipped kitchenettes
Comfortable indoor and outdoor lounge areas (shared)
Daily breakfast, coffee, tea, and cookies included
Free parking and Wi-Fi
Those with young kids and mobility issues will want to look elsewhere
No toiletries in the bathroom
Some suites do not have private balconies
A steep walk to the beach
It's all about the views at this upper-middle-range guesthouse overlooking St. Lucia's stunning Marigot Bay. There are only five rooms -- aptly called suites since they have private kitchenettes -- with quality furnishings, and access to shared living spaces. The highlight is certainly the terrace with an outdoor pool, which has a gorgeous vantage point (without a railing: beware kids), but the hillside location is also walking distance to a beach, water sports, restaurants, and a popular marina. The friendly Belgian owners who live on-site make breakfast daily, and assist with local advice. Wi-Fi and parking are free.
Scene
A comfy home-away-from-home for easygoing couples who seek an alternative to resorts
Like any good hidden gem, this guesthouse is not an easy place to find (or to get to). First there's bumpy, swerving roads on the way to Marigot Bay, then there's an unmarked, steep road to get to the property. Finding this place may require stopping and asking a local for directions. Eventually we found the narrow side road near Capella -- the biggest and most upscale resort in the area -- and drove up the steep incline before arriving at a small parking area next to a white metal gate. A set of downward steps ends at a dark wooden doorway, and guests may encounter the snoozing resident cat named Harry.
If this looks like a house, well, it is. Marigot Palms has been owned by a Belgian couple since 2013, Danny and Ann, who run the place singlehandedly and also live on-site, helping to give it that genuine homey feel (they share their spacious living room and kitchen). They are both friendly and hospitable, offering tea and cookies on arrival and a tour of the common areas, which include panoramic views of the bay, scented by surrounding tropical plants and fruit trees.
With so few other guests, many of whom are out and about during the day, the property offers a nice mix of privacy and interaction, especially in the mornings and early evenings when others might be having a beer on the terrace. The owners themselves are passionate about Belgian beer and are happy to discuss it in depth (they also offer occasional beer-themed dinners and events). Evenings can be as simple as cooking and dining on the terrace or private balconies while watching sailboats float by. Those seeking a little nightlife can trek down the hillside and head to Cappella's restaurants, or take the water taxi to the Rainforest Cafe for live music.
Location
A charming hillside locale on Marigot Bay; a car is recommended for longer stays
Getting around St. Lucia is much easier to do by boat than by car, hence Marigot Bay's thriving on-site marina. However, not everyone has this luxury, and those traveling by vehicle should expect an hour-long, expensive taxi ride from Hewanorra International Airport at Vieux Fort (UVF), or 30-minute ride from George F. L. Charles Airport, near Castries (SLU). If renting a car, there's free parking, but prepare for slow, narrow, winding roads with jarring potholes -- best avoided after dark.
The views on arrival make up for the journey. Marigot Bay's crystal-clear inlet is surrounded by emerald-green landscapes; author James Michener called it the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean. The bay doesn't have the same level of resort development as the north coast, but it's not quite as remote feeling as the area around Jade Mountain -- it's about in between, both literally and figuratively.
Though Marigot Palms is more secluded than other spots in the bay, conveniences are available at Marina Village such as a bank, a few boutiques, a high-quality (but expensive) supermarket, some duty-free outlets, an art gallery, a bakery, and an ice cream parlor. The resort's free water taxi makes regular rounds between here and the other side of the bay where restaurants like Rainforest (fancier) and Doolittle's (more casual) are located, as well as the beach and water sports.
Guests can also take a taxi or ask the owners for a lift to the market to buy food for lower prices than the Marigot Bay market.
Rooms
Quality antique furnishings, like mahogany four-poster beds; some have private balconies
All of the suites are unique in size and layout, since this is an actual home that has been converted to a guesthouse. What they have in common are daily maid service, air-conditioning, TVs with cable channels, and private bathrooms with walk-in showers and rain showerheads. Kitchenettes also vary in size but are equipped with modern appliances like mini-fridges, ovens, stovetops, microwaves, and coffeemakers. Decor also ranges per unit, but most err on the side of classic with dark-wooden furnishings, many of them which are genuine antiques in great condition.
The Clarance Suite is a ground-floor poolside unit and has less privacy, though it still has a four-poster bed, dining table for two, and seating on the shared terrace. The Buckingham is also on the ground floor, and is better suited for families; it can sleep up to four people, and has a spacious living and dining area, kitchen, and laundry facilities. For more privacy, Sandringham is on the upper floor with a separate balcony that faces the bay. Also on the upper level is the bigger Windsor unit with a living and dining area, and a longer balcony.
Features
Breakfast is made daily by the owners.
When outside of the room, most guests will gravitate to the small bean-shaped outdoor pool and terrace overlooking the bay. The views of lush green terrain, crystal clear blue-green water, and boats sailing to and from the marina down below are truly the highlight here. To enjoy the landscape, there are cushioned sun loungers and umbrellas begging to be used as well as a shaded lounge area, and tables for dining, though parents with little ones will want to be very careful since there is no railing surrounding the terrace. Those who don't mind the trek can walk down the steep hill to get to the the water taxi that will take guests over to a calm beachfront with beige sand -- a short distance away -- with sun loungers, palapas, and water sports for hire.
Back on-site, other common spaces include a work desk, shared living room with oversized comfortable furniture, and a large kitchen where the owners cook their own meals as well as breakfast for guests. Coffee and tea are always available on a help-yourself basis. Wi-Fi is also free and reliable.
There isn’t a full-service bar or restaurant on-site but guests can either cook in their suites or head to restaurants nearby -- some requiring the water taxi -- like Masala Bay, Julietta's, and the popular Rainforest Hideaway, which has live jazz nights and gets a fun crowd (reservations are recommended). Capella's main restaurant, The Grill at 14⁰61⁰, is the best and only fine-dining option in Marigot Bay -- named after the location's latitude and longitude. There’s also the casual Bayside Cafe with takeaway coffee, smoothies, pastries, sandwiches, and ice cream, as well as a seated waterfront patio serving a la carte fare.