Las Cuevas Beach Lodge

This traditional, slightly worn, and utterly plain Trinidadian house with just 11 guest rooms has lots of outdoor space, which is the biggest asset in an area that has limited options for lodging (none of which are particularly memorable). There are a ton of plush couches and the verandah, which is also part of the restaurant and has many tables and chairs for hanging out as well. The biggest star of the show, though, are the amazing ocean views. The hotel lobby doubles as the bar and despite feeling completely safe, the bar and cashier are protected by metal bars -- not exactly the most welcoming choice when it comes to style. The resort’s grounds incorporate nature, and are covered in blossoming flowers. There’s also a huge fruit tree with sweet tangerines and chirping birds darting about. All in all, for budget travelers with managed expectations, this is one of the better options in the area, but things are dated and barebones throughout. Most guests are couples, though some families pass through as well. 

Las Cuevas is perched on a lush mountainside overlooking Las Cuevas Beach, one of Trinidad’s most beautiful (and popular) north coast beaches. The shore is a three-minute walk from the lodge and is also where leatherback sea turtles nest from January to August. Otherwise, there's not much else to see or do in the immediate area aside from other budget hotels. Nearby St. Michael is a small fishing village with shops and a bar (a 10-minute walk). Overlooking the village are the ruins of Fort Abercromby, a former British citadel with rusting cannons and commanding views of the bay -- it's a 20-minute walk from the hotel. The closest ATM is in Port of Spain, the island’s capital, which is 45 minutes away by car. Piarco International Airport -- the island’s international travel hub -- is a serpentine, 90-minute drive from Las Cuevas depending on traffic. 

Rooms at Las Cuevas are basic and long overdue for an update. The hotel’s three room types -- Premium, Standard, and Budget -- have air-conditioning, TVs with satellite channels, and a queen or two double beds. Otherwise, it's a pretty grim and dated affair. Expect scuffed-up tan walls, floral bedspreads and sheets, and a hodgepodge of furniture that ranges from rustic wooden furniture to catering hall chairs. The best rooms are the Premium Rooms, and they're worth the splurge, with flat-screen TVs, refrigerators, microwaves, and -- the best part -- ocean-view balconies. All rooms have big wardrobes and desks, and the better rooms also have plush couches or armchairs. Bathrooms have tiled walls with stand-up showers and include soap, shampoo, and hairdryers. We saw lots of rust and wear in some of the bathrooms, but they are -- despite the unappealing pink grout work -- clean. Premium Rooms, of course, have nicer, more modern bathrooms. Details like exposed pipes and electric cords throughout won't make everyone happy, and unfortunately there’s no Wi-Fi in guest rooms.   

Las Cuevas is a bare-bones lodge that doesn’t have many amenities, but does a great job with it offers -- an especially pleasant surprise given the budget look of everything here. Las Cuevas Restaurant serves three fresh and tasty meals a day, consisting of local dishes, seafood, and international plates. It’s located on the hotel’s wraparound veranda and has nice ocean views. A free breakfast includes local and international options and is well-liked by previous guests The mosquitos can be bad and the hotel provides free home-made citronella spray for guests. The hotel can arrange tours, leatherback turtle watching (when in season), and boat rides. There’s also an outdoor shower for bathing after a day at the beach. Laundry service is available (for a fee) and there’s free printing. Free parking is available and Wi-Fi is free in the lobby and on the verandah.