Surfsong Villa Resort

Surfsong Villa offers a kind of upscale vacation that’s hard to describe. Travelers looking for marble bathrooms, multiple pools, a renowned spa, or Michelin-star dining will likely be disappointed, as Surfsong’s appeal lies in its simplicity. Instead, this is a place where people come to eat breakfast in bed and lay in a hammock for the rest of the day. Many of Surfsong’s guests are repeat visitors, and claim specific villas as “theirs.” Though children above age eight are welcome, we didn’t see any during our visit. 

In keeping with Surfsong’s sense of understated luxury, it’s no surprise that the lobby feels more like an elegant living room than a formal reception space. Guests are greeted by a stone Buddha sitting on a simple table. To the right, intricately carved tables and chairs create an intimate living space, where guests can come to read or use the hotel’s communal computer. A sizable honor bar occupies the back corner, and leads to a stunning courtyard where daily meals are served. 

Surfsong Villa is located on Beef Island, a tiny island connected to Tortola by a small bridge. Beef Island’s claim to fame is that it’s home to Tortola’s airport, Terrance B. Lettsome (EIS). Besides the airport, there’s nothing much to see or do on Beef Island. Surfsong Villa is a two-minute drive from the airport, but feels worlds away, although guests can certainly see and hear the occasional airplane land. The property is surrounded by water on two sides — the rougher open waters of the Caribbean Sea on its southern side, and the calm, protected waters of Well Bay on its western side.  

Unfortunately for American travelers, there are no direct flights to Tortola from any U.S. cities. Travelers must first fly to San Juan Puerto Rico (SJU) or St. Thomas (STT) and then take a connecting flight to EIS. The flight from SJU is about 40 minutes, while the flight from STT is about 15.  

There are seven villas at Surfsong, ranging from tiny studios to three-bedroom apartments with full kitchens and private pools. The villas have island-inspired names like Driftwood, Seascape, and Surfside, and though each is slightly different in size and layout, decor is relatively the same throughout. We'd describe the design scheme as casual island chic — think four-poster beds with gauzy canopies, natural stone accent walls, braided seagrass furniture, and seafoam-green tiled bathrooms. Surfsong’s emphasis on indoor/outdoor living helps create an effortless, airy feel in all of the rooms, but all are air-conditioned, just in case it gets too hot. All villas have some sort of outdoor living component. Most have patios with cushioned lounge chairs, a few have large hammocks, and one, the Pool House, has a private outdoor swimming pool.  

All rooms are stocked with thoughtful amenities like Nespresso machines, beach coolers, jugs of filtered water, flashlights, and eco-friendly toiletries. Of course, all the mainstays of an upscale resort are present as well — flat-screen TVs, electronic safes, bathrobes, iron and ironing boards, hairdryers. But in our opinion, Surfsong’s most thoughtful in-room amenity is the beach bag placed on all of the rooms’ beds. Inside the canvas bag guests will find green and white striped beach towels and a water-proof phone case to use during their stay. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel, and works equally well in the rooms and common spaces.

Surfsong Villa doesn’t have typical resort amenities like a pool, full-service spa, or fitness center, but its stunning beach, impressive culinary team, and relaxed atmosphere seem to be what attract guests year after year. 

Surrounded on two sides by water, Surfsong Villa provides guests with seemingly endless ocean views. The more rugged southern beach faces the open waters of the Caribbean sea. The water is a bit too rough for swimming here, and the beach is usually covered in coral, but the hotel has done an excellent job of strategically placing beach chairs, hammocks, and cushioned daybeds in private spots along the shoreline. The property’s western side faces the bath-like waters of Well Bay, and offers impressive views of Tortola’s hilly landscape. This beach has lounge chairs set up on its soft sand, and guests can use the provided kayaks, paddleboards, and Hobie Cats for free. Surfsong also has a two-story covered beach lounge, with cushioned outdoor furniture and a small bar. Although there’s no spa, the hotel can arrange massages for guests on the second level of the beach lounge. 

The unique culinary offerings at Surfsong Villa set the hotel apart from its competitors. There is no on-site restaurant per se, but the hotel operates a reservations-only dinner service three nights a week. Priority seating is given to guests, but non-guests and locals are also welcome to make reservations. The menu changes for each service, but always consists of three courses and a choice between two entrees. During our visit, we had the pleasure of sampling a local watermelon and feta salad, a Caribbean roti (the best we tried on Tortola), and delicious key lime pie. 

Breakfast and lunch are served six days per week, and the hotel’s Sunday brunch is somewhat legendary. The culinary team also offers a “Gourmet to Go” service for guests to who want to picnic on the beach, or take their lunch off-property. The Gourmet to Go menu changes occasionally, but typically consists of delicious salads, sandwiches, and crudités. Twenty-four hour notice is required for all Gourmet to Go meals. Meal plans and provisioning services are available for guests staying longer than two nights. 

All meals are served in Surfsong’s beautiful courtyard, just off the lobby. The courtyard is surrounded by large granite boulders and leafy trees, and a large wooden pergola offers shade during the daytime. At night the courtyard is lit up by candlelight, creating a cozy, romantic feel. Guests can also request to have their meals served in their rooms.