For backpackers and budget travelers planning a trip to Railay, the hillside Railay Phutawan Resort should be considered. What makes this a compelling option is the incredible panorama the hotel provides of the staggering limestone cliffs and jungle-covered hills all around. You half-expect to see a pterodactyl launch itself from the clifftop and soar through the sky -- instead, if you squint, you might see rock-climbers scaling the cliff's face. This breathtaking panorama is something that not even the upscale resorts by the water can provide (though those who prefer direct Andaman Sea views should stay on the beach). There's nothing between the property and the towering cliffs.

These views come from the resort's hillside position between the two beaches. Because it is not on the beach, it's well-priced, and travelers on an even stricter budget can book one of the cheaper non-view rooms in the rear. Parents with strollers or anyone with compromised mobility should look elsewhere, as the resort is built over a steep hill and the path there is demanding once heavy backpacks and luggage are added to the mix (though the hotel will send a shuttle to the dock, on request). When walking and riding along the path to and from Railay East and West, you're almost certain to see gibbons on the electricity wires and tree branches. 

Guests include some older families but mostly couples and groups of friends (including backpackers and rock-climbers) in their 20s and 30s coming from Europe, Canada, the U.S., and Australia. At any time of the day and into the evening, at least a few people can be found in or around the pool, leaning on the infinity edge or reading and nursing a cocktail in one of the curved loungers. The guests camped out and the playing of R&B, reggaeton, and hip hop give the pool a social vibe, but the scene stays chill and doesn't get rowdy. Otherwise, guests are out climbing the cliffs or relaxing on Railay West.

While most Railay accommodations are on the east or west beaches, Railay Phutawan Resort is up on a hill between the two. This position provides views of the looming cliffs and enveloping jungle not seen at other resorts. The resort is a 10-minute walk from Railay West, where long-tails from Ao Nang land. The walk between the resort and Railay East (where boats from Krabi Town dock) is a little shorter, about seven minutes. The path is generally flat but inclines sharply near the resort. New arrivals with luggage can book the hotel's shuttle service, which sends a tractor to pick up guests from either dock. The boat rides to Ao Nang and Krabi Town take 20 to 30 minutes, respectively, and guests should budget at least 90 minutes to reach the Krabi Airport by a combination of boat and taxi.

Railay is on the mainland, but it's on a peninsula surrounded by impenetrable cliffs, so can only be reached by boat. Those cliffs make Railay one of the most famous rock-climbing destinations in the world. The resort is especially well placed for rock-climbers, as there is a rock-climbing outfitter (and enormous cliff face) right in front of the hotel. 

There is a big variety of room types among Phutawan's 40 rooms. Twelve rooms are set in the main three-story building by the pool -- but pool, cliff, and ocean views are only visible from the second and third floors. Other rooms are dispersed between two back buildings (closest to the jungle, so no sea views), a building below the pool bar with a steeply pitched roof, and 10 cottages (freestanding, but without sea views). If views are important, request an upper-floor room in the main building.

Decor is traditional Thai, with lovely printed bedrunners and throw pillows. Our third-floor Seaview room had wood and bamboo walls, hardwood floors, a recessed ceiling over the bed, solid carved wood patio furnishings, and a bamboo ladder for hanging wet swimsuits. This room, and the others on the second and third floors of the main building, have excellent views of the cliff, valley, and sea, but people hanging out by the pool can see in. The sliding glass balcony doors don't have gauzy curtains, so for privacy occupants must fully close the drapes and block their views.

Mattresses (no box springs) are set on wood platforms. All rooms have free coffee, tea, and two bottles of water. For a fee, guests can upgrade to refrigerated sparkling water from the minibar. Candy bars, cashews, pistachios, and potato and corn chips are also available for purchase.

Bathrooms could stand a renovation, but they’re clean and big. Ours had linoleum flooring and a peek-a-boo window whose blinds were oddly placed outside the bathroom, so you better trust your roommate not to fling them open at inopportune times. Bathrooms have separate tubs and doorless walk-in showers with wall-mounted shower gel and shampoo. There is no hand soap for the sink, no hand towels, and no toiletries except shower caps and wall-mounted products. Slippers are provided, but not robes.

Wi-Fi is free in the rooms and throughout. There are no in-room phones or safes; guests can leave valuables at reception.

The hero feature of Railay Phutawan is its infinity pool, which has staggering views of cliffs in the foreground and the sea in the distance. At almost any point of the day, at least one guest can be found with their arms propped up on its stacked-stone infinity wall and drinking up the view (and probably a bottle of Chang). Around it are several outdoor relaxation spots, including an big deck with cushioned platforms and smaller wood patios for sunbathing. Pool towels are available at the pool bar or reception. 

The all-day bar beside the pool appears humble, but it offers a remarkably long drink list -- everything from pina coladas and wine to fruit shakes and juices -- and menu of Thai and western foods, including Southern-Thailand-style turmeric soup with chicken, king prawns in butter sauce, pad Thai omelets, burgers, and fish and chips. Some room rates include free breakfast, which is served in an open-air restaurant close to the cliff. Breakfast includes a small buffet (yogurt, cereal, toast, jam, fruit, sausage, salad) and one cooked-to-order item, such as banana pancakes. Room service is available, though to place it, guests must use their cell phone or leave their order at the pool bar or at reception. In the lobby, guests can also drop off their laundry (prices are only slightly more than local prices) or book excursions. It's a good idea to request the hotel shuttle for dock pick up when booking.